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I top 15 ting over "hvad man skal se/lave i Istanbul" anbefaler jeg i højst grad en kulinarisk tur/oplevelse med en guide. Min datter og jeg har ofte talt om at tage på en "mad tur/mad kursus" på vores ferie til udlandet og jeg er lykkelig for at vi endeligt fik prøvet det denne gang på vores ferie i Istanbul for knap 2 uger siden. Jeg havde læst om en kulinarisk oplevelse over 2 kontinenter og synes at det lød spændende især fordi noget af oplevelsen vil foregå i Kadikoy/Moda i den asiatiske del af Istanbul, en område vi ikke havde besøg så meget på vores tidligere ferie i Istanbul.
Den tur vi valgte "The taste of Two Continents" hos Istanbul on Food indeholdte 10 stop på forskellige spise steder, 3 stop i Den gamle by i den europæiske del af Istanbul og resten i den asiatiske del. Vores guide Ibrahim som talte fyldende engelsk var meget sød, underholdende og informativ. Han sørgede for alle og var god til at involverer alle i de forskellige samtaler vi havde. Vi talte om forskellige tyrkisk kebab, mad kultur og vi blev udfordret på vores kendskab til ingredienser. Det blev en meget spændende og underholdende dag, ikke kun pga af de 10 kulinariske stop men også pga at vi oplevede forskellige områder, gader og stræder, mad markeder og forskellig delikatesse forretninger. Jeg vil gerne dele den gode oplevelse med jer og fortælle om nogle af de mange spisesteder der gjorde indtryk
English:
In my top 15 thing to do/see in Istanbul I highly recommend a culinary food tour with a local guide. My daughter and I have often talked about taking a food tour during one of our vacations. I am very happy that we finally got to try one on our vacation in Istanbul for almost 2 weeks ago. I had read about this 2 continent food tour that looked very exciting especially because some of the tour would take place in Kadikoy/Moda in the asien part of Istanbul, a part we had seen very little of on our previous visits to Istanbul.
The fun food tour " The Taste of Two Continents" we found on Istanbul on Food contained 10 stop at different eateries, 3 stop in the Old City on the european side and rest on the asien side. Our tour guide Ibrahim fluent in english was very friendly, informative and entertaining. He took care of everybody and was very good at involving everyone in the various conversations we had. We talked about various kind of turkish kebabs, food culture and we were challenged on our knowledge of different ingredients by Ibrahim. This was quiet an entertaining and exciting day not only because of the culinary stops at the eateries but also because of the different areas we visited, the streets we walked, the food markets and the specialty shops we visited. I would like to share my experiences with you of some of the many eateries that made an impression.
1 tyrkisk morgenmad i Spice Bazaar.
Inden morgenmaden gik vi forbi en simit sælger og en delikatesse forretning i Spice Bazaar for at købe forskellige friske oste, lækker hasselnød creme og andet pålæg. Til morgenmaden fik vi bl.a serverede frisk menemen som er tyrkisk rør æg med tomater, simit og kaymak med honing. Simit er den her lækker ring formet tyrkisk rundstykke og kaymak er en slags "clotted cream" som kan laves af forskellige mælk. Vores var lavet af bøffelmælk og var yderst lækkert. Vi fik også smag en lækker gede ost som har lageret 7 måneder i en gedeskind.
Nogle dage sener vendte vi vendte tilbage til delikatesse forretning for at købe ost og hasselnød cremen til at tage med hjem. Sæt det på jeres liste over ting i skal have med fra Istanbul. Forretninger vakum pakker gerne.
1. Turkish breakfast in the Spice Bazaar.
Before breakfast we passed a simit vendor and a delicatessen at Spice Bazaar to buy various fresh cheeses, delicious hazelnut cream and other toppings. For breakfast we were served fresh menemen which is a Turkish egg dish with tomatoes, simit and kaymak with honey. Simit is this delicious turkish ring shaped bread roll and kaymak is a kind of clotted cream that can be made from different type of milk. Ours was made from buffalo milk and was extremely delicious. We also got to taste a delicious goat cheese which has been stored for 7 months in a goat's skin.
A few days later, we returned to the delicatessen shop to buy cheese and hazelnut cream to take home. Do Put it on your list of things to bring home from Istanbul. The shops vacuum packs for you, just ask.
Gedost til lagering i gedeskind / goat cheese for storage in goatskin
Ost / Cheese
2. Lam suppe på Lezzet -i- sark, adresse: Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cd. No:38, Fatih/İstanbul.
Hvad er ideen med suppe på sådan en varm sommer dag tænkte jeg først. Efter at have prøvet denne lækker fyldig suppe med lam og ris, vil jeg ikke have undværet den. Vi fik fortalt at suppen er kogt på 12 timer og en specialitet fra Antep. Spise stedet er en lille sted beliggende i baggaderne af Spice Bazaar. Jeg har sat Lezzet -I- Sark Antep Sofrasi på min liste over spisesteder/mad man skal prøve i Istanbul. Besøg den lille hyggelig spisested når I besøger Spice Baazar, sæt jer ved de små borde i stue etagen og nyd suppen med udsigten til den travle bazaar liv.
I skrivende stund har jeg lig læst på TripAdvisor at mange anbefaler også deres kunefe, det skulle jeg have vidst. Men nu har vi noget mere til gode det må vente til næste gang vi tager på ferie til Istanbul inshallah.
2. Lamb suop at Lezzet -I- Sark, adresse: Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cd. No:38, Fatih/İstanbul.
What is the idea of soup on such a hot summer day, I first thought. After trying this delicious rich lamb and rice soup, I would not have been with out it. We were told that the soup is cooked during 12 hours or so and is a specialty from Antep. The eatery is a small place located in the back streets of spice Bazaar. Lezzet -I Sark Antep Sofrasi is now on my list of the places/food I recommend to try in Istanbul. Visit this cozy eatery after strolling in the Spice Bazaar, have a seat beside one of the small tables on the ground flour and enjoy the soup with a view of the busy bazaar life.
Right now I have read on TripAdvisor that many also recommend their kunefe, I wish I had known. But now we have something to look forward to next we visit Istanbul inshallah.
Lezzet -I- Sark Antep Sofrasi
4. Iskender kebab at Kebapaci Iskender, Kadikoy
Efter at have besøgt vores tredie stop, en te og krydderi shop i Spice bazaar, sejlede vi over den smukke Bosporus til den asiatiske side. Spise stedet har været i familien Iskender i 3 generationer Vi fik fortalt at det var deres farfar det havde opfundet Iskender kebabén. Iskender kendes også som doner kebab mange steder. Deres Iskender kebab bliver grillet over flammer og der er anderledes i forhold til mange andre steder, hvor kødet bliver grillet over gas grill. Kødet havde lækker smag. Der blev hældt smeltet smør over ved bordet mums, nogle af os bad om endnu portion mere til deling. Stedet er en must for doner elskere.
4. Iskender kebab at Kebapaci Iskender, Kadikoy
After visiting our third stop at a tea and spice shop in the Spice Bazaar, we took the ferry across the beautiful Bosporus to the asian side. The third generation of the Iskender family runs the kebabaci now. We were told that it was their grandfather who had invented the Iskender kebab. Iskender is also known as doner kebab in many places. Their Iskender kebab is grilled over flames and is different compared to many other places where the meat is grilled over the gas. The meat had delicious flavor. Melted butter was poured over the meat at the table, yum some of us asked for a second portion to share. The place is a must for donor lovers.
Det smeltet smør gjorde udslaget, mums / the melted butter did the trick, yum
Iskender kebab laves på flamme grill / Iskender kebab made on flame gril
Fish Bazaar Kadikoy
pickle shop, Kadikoy
Rå honing/ Raw honey
Forskellige typer honing fra Tyrkiet på Eta Bal Adresse: Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. 28/A, Kadikoy.
Different types of Turkish honey at Eta Bal from different regions of Turkey. Adresse: Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. 28/A, Kadikoy
6. Mezze på Ciya Sofrasi, adresse: Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. No:43, kadikoy.
Efter vores 5 stop ved et pickle forretning, en tur gennem bog bazaar, fiske bazaar grønt og frugt markedet og en honing specialitet forretning hvor jeg smagte lækker yoghurt med honing, en tyrkisk specialitet forsatte vi over til Ciya Sofrasi. Ciya er en af stederne jeg havde glædet mig meget. Jeg hørte om Ciya ca 1½ år siden og havde set et chef program om Chefkokken Musa om hvordan han havde rejst rundt i Tyrkiet og samlet egns opskrifter. Heldigvis blev mine forventninger indfriet. Maden var lækker og rig på smag. Vi fik prøvet mange lækker kolde Mezze og en særdeles lækker hovedret, en gryderet med med okra og lam. Jeg er ellers ikke okra fan. Ciya var allerede på min liste overspisteder man skal prøve i Istanbul. Efter at de andre familie medlemmer ankom til Istanbul fik vi at spise endnu engang lækker mad på Ciya, det fortæller jeg om næste gang.
6. Mezze at Ciya Sofrasi, adresse: Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. No:43, 34710 Kadıköy/İstanbul.
After our 5 stop at a pickle shop, a walk in trough the book bazzar, the fish bazaar, the green and fruit bazaar and a little visit to a honey specialty shop where I tasted delicious yogurt with honey which is a Turkish specialty we headed over to Ciya Sofrasi. Ciya is one of the places I was really looking forward to visit as Ciya already was on my list of eateries/restaurant to try in Istanbul. I had heard about Ciya 1½ years ago and seen a chef program about Chef Musa about how he had traveled around Turkey and collected recipes from different regions. Fortunately, my expectations were met. The food was delicious and rich in flavors. We did try many delicious cold Mezze and a very scrumptious main course, a stew with okra and lamb which I recommend. After the other family members also arrived to Istanbul we had a scrumptious dinner once more at Ciya some days later. I'll tell you about that next time.
min mezze tallerken fra Ciya / my collection of mezzes at Ciya
gryderet med lam og okra / lamb and okra stew
7. Fyldte musslinger, Midyeci Yasin, adresse : Moda Caddesi no:22, Kadikoy
På trods af at vi har været i istanbul mange gange før har vi aldrig smagt denne Istanbul specialitet: fyldte muslinger. Vi var også meget spændt på denne populær street food. Muslinger fyldes med ris, friske urter og pinje kerner og dampes eller koges. De nydes med masser af citron på. De var friske og smagte virkelig godt, de var så gode at de nu er på min liste med mad man skal prøve i Istanbul.
7. Stuffed mussels at Midyeci Yasin, adresse: Moda Caddesi no. 22, Kadikoy
Despite having been to Istanbul many times before, we have never tasted this Istanbul specialty: stuffed mussels. So we were also very excited about this popular street food. Mussels are stuffed with rice, fresh herbs and pine kernels and then steamed or cooked. They are enjoyed with lots of lemon on. They were fresh and tasted really good, so good that they are now on my istanbul food list to try.
Baklava og kaffe- te pause /Baklava and coffe - tea break
Gåtur mellem smukke gader af Kadikoy/ Strolling between beautiful streets of Kadikoy
9. Kokorec og ayran
Efter en tiltrængt kaffe te pause med lækker vanedannende baklava, gik vi en tur mere i de smukke gade af Kadikoy. Den lille spisested som jeg på nuværende tidspunkt desværre ikke kan huske navn på er kendt for endnu en tyrkisk street food specialitet, Kokorec som er 2 gange stegt lam tarme, først spydsteg og siden skåret i skiver og stegt igen med krydderier og chili flakes. Kødet spises i sandwich. Jeg har læst at retten stammer fra nomaderen som ikke vil lade noget gå til spilde. Jeg vil sige at selv om det ikke smagte dårligt var det ikke noget for mig, til gengæld blev jeg stor fan af deres ayran (yoghurt drink).
9. Kokorec and ayran
After a much needed coffee tea break with delicious addictive baklava, we took a walk more in the beautiful streets of Kadikoy. The little eatery that I currently can't remember the name of is known for yet another Turkish street food specialty, Kokorec which is 2 times fried lamb casings, first grilled on skewers and then chopped and fried again with spices and chili flakes. The meat is eaten in sandwiches. I have read that this dish came from the nomad who would not waste. I will say that even though it didn't taste bad it was not my taste, in return I became a big fan of their ayran (yogurt drink).
Frisk skummende ayran/ Fresh foamy ayran
smukke gader i Moda / the beautiful streets of Moda
Efter stop nr 10, hvor vi smagte tyrkisk is og en special tyrkisk dessert som jeg lader være en overraskelse sluttede vores food tour. min datter og jeg sagde farvel til de andre søde deltager og vores søde guide. de tog tilbage til Europa og vi blev i asien for at udforske Kadikoy og Moda mere nogle timer. Det fortæller jeg om en anden gang. Som tidligere skrevet anbefaler jeg i højst grad en kulinarisk tur med en lokal guide. Det var en stor oplevelse for os.
Man får smagt mad som man måske ikke vil have smagt eller kendt før, man får set forskellige andre steder og gader, hvor man som turist måske ikke havde brugt så meget tid på. Jeg håber I har nydt at læse om vores oplevelse. jeg vender snart tilbage med mere.
After stop nr 10, where we tasted turkis ice cream and a special Turkish dessert which I leaves as a surprise, our food tour ended. My daughter and bid goodbye to the other sweet contestant and our sweet guide. They went back to Europe and we stayed in Asia to explore Kadikoy and Moda for a few more hours. As previously written, I highly recommend a culinary tour with a local guide. This was a great and good experience for us.
You get to taste food that you might not have tasted or known before, you get to see various other places and streets where as a tourist you might not have spent as much time before. I hope you enjoyed reading about our experience and I will soon return with more